HISTORY of the 220 Cabriolet A & B -----

The 220 series was the first new body style produced after the war. The classic body style from the 170 remained with few changes. The headlights were placed in the fenders rather than on top of them. The Cabriolet came in two styles, the A; which was a two passenger vehicle with a rear jump seat, and the B; which was a roomy four seater with rear quarter windows. Coupes were also made during the "second series" 1954-1955, and are extremely rare. Eighty-five coupes were produced, thirteen of them with sunroofs. The 220 model was the last to have suicide doors.

The first series Cabriolet A's were trimmed differently than other 220's. The dash leather was trimmed out in the same color as the seats, the dash top had veneered wood in burled elm, burled walnut or burled rosewood also matching the seat color, wool carpeting which was bound in scived leather also matching the seats, the trunk was carpeted in tan wool to match the optional fitted luggage. The Cabriolet A is the most collectible and valuable 220 model today.

The Cabriolet B had an all-metal subframe. Interior trim cloned that of the sedan's; solid ash dashboard top, wood and metal were dark brown regardless of trim color, and the wood was not stained, but varnished for a near-opaque finish.

In 1954 the 220 Cabriolet A completely replaced the Cabriolet B and sedan. These are considered the "second series" cars, but were virtually unchanged. The only change was the curved windshield which distiguishes them from the "first series" automobiles. Also produced during the "second series" was the coupe. The coupe is extremely rare and highly prized as only 85 were built.

These cars are magnificant sculptures with elegant lines and fine interiors, and they are sound buys when they need little or no restoration. However, if you are going to keep the car and enjoy it, a restoration is worth every penny.

Buying A 220 Cabriolet A & B

Know what you're buying and what to look for and know what to avoid.

When these cars are well maintained and properly taken care of, they increase in value. Currently:(these are approximate values based on actual sales of vehicles.) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- values last updated SEPTEMBER/2011

PLEASE READ THIS FIRST!

A car's value is determined by condition. Standard condition guidelines are as follows:

Excellent- As close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been fully detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at. Everything works as new, all equipment is original, NOS or excellent quality reproductions. PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT # 1 CARS ARE VERY RARE, AND ARE ORIGINAL RIGHT DOWN TO THE HOSE CLAMPS. DO NOT ASSUME THAT JUST BECAUSE A CAR HAS A #1 ASKING PRICE, THAT IT IS IN # 1 CONDITION. MOST CARS FOR SALE OUT THERE ARE LOW # 2 TO HIGH # 3 CARS.

Very Good- An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas have been detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly not a # 1 vehicle.

Good- Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but clean. Body should be straight and solid with no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well but may need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work. But it is useable and enjoyable as is.

Fair- Runs and drives ok but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body shows signs of wear or previous restoration work. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Cosmetics, body and mechanicals all need work to some degree.

Poor- In need of complete restoration, but is complete and not a rust bucket beyond repair. May or may not run but is not roadworthy.

These values are from Collector Car Market Review and are based on actual sales of vehicles, not on asking prices of vehicles. Asking prices, and sales prices are very different.

Keep in mind that due to the high cost of restoration, mint examples of these cars can and have sold for more than the prices quoted here.

Where to find the engine number and chassis number. The chassis number is located on the right front frame rail. and the engine number is located on the left side of the engine block below the cylinder head. The vehicle data tag is located on the firewall on the right side. Look at the car in general. Walk around the car several times looking at the gaps for the doors, trunk and hood. Look at the general overall condition of the car.

Condition of a car CANNOT be determined by its location. Don't be fooled by a car's current geographical location. Just because a car is in California today, does not mean that is where it started life. The Cab A and the coupe have wooden body frames; because of this it will deteriorate over time, especially if moisture gets to it. The best way to check for this is to look closely at the suicide doors. If they sag, remove the driver's doorsill trim to expose the wood. Replacing the wood is rather expensive, and it can only be done with the car taken completely apart. The frame box section that bolts the body to the frame needs to be checked for rust. The aluminum mounting pads between the frame and box section and the floorboards need to be checked as well. At present, mechanical parts for this car have been no problem in getting. Sheetmetal and chrome; however, are more difficult to find.

Check the chassis number which are as follows:

Technical Specifications of the 220 Cabriolet A & B